Best climbing webbing anchor reddit Same setup but sometimes i choose to build the anchor using the climbing rope. Used mainly for sport - cleaning routes and on multipitch raps. All anchors Build your webbing anchor, but instead of tying a water knot to join the webbing, tie two loops that almost join. It does when you pull it. Advertisement Coins. For toprope anchors with disparate placements: Generally I use webbing to extend pieces by tying it in a loop with a water knot, then clipping one end to the placement and the other to one of I'm looking to start practicing and building top rope anchors and was wondering what lengths of webbing would be handy to have to cover most applications. This allows for ~25' legs with a dedicated line to get over the edge (useful for transitioning from rapping over the edge to rapping down the climbing rope) or two ~45' legs. Seems like this is not actually equalized at all, because the goal of an equalized anchor is for the force to be distributed equally among the anchors in the event of a fall. Rappel anchors, hasty harnesses, improvised litter, play tug of war when you’re bored, etrier ladder, hang yourself, tie up your boyfriend, anchor point for a rope system where you want a mechanical assist, vehicle recovery (be careful with that one and know the load rating), secure loads on vehicles, and much much more. If its an accessible anchor just use opposing draws (one made of two lockers is safest) as long as the rope isn't rubbin over an edge too bad. I would recommend the method in the first video. If a spare locking carabiner isn't available, be sure the gates are opposed, and add a third carabinerI have done my share of toproping, and whenever a locking carabiner is unavailable, I always If you are making an IDEAS anchor with three points, between two belay stations you've just burned 6 lockers. Get more webbing (assuming 1" tubular) and a length of 8mm cord. In terms anchor-building materials, you’re good to use cordelette, webbing, nylon, dynema, or the rope. I have 1 inch tubular webbing and 7 mm accessory cord. A rope doesn't move while rapping. Cardano Dogecoin Algorand Bitcoin Litecoin Basic Attention Token Bitcoin Cash. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. I would hope that you have a guide though for a bit to learn about all the basics of sport climbing. That's not what I'm talking about. Monolithic anchors are OK - depending on the size. A common scenario might be a couple of quick links on the bolt hangers, a few feet of webbing, and a rap ring (or two). I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). He tethered himself onto this anchor rope using a prusik knot connected to a carabiner which was clipped onto his harness belay loop. 9kn peak force, or 650lbs force on the anchor Assuming perfect equalization each anchor takes ~325 lbs peak force This is ~75% of the assumed breaking strength of each leg of the anchor You generally want anchors to experience no more than 50% of assumed max load That is to say, if you reach an anchor and want to set up a rappel, connect yourself directly to the anchor with a dyneema sling so you can untie yourself from the rope and begin setting up the rappel, then somehow find yourself with the anchor at waist level and slip and fall, that is a factor 1 fall directly on a dyneema sling and is a huge Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. then sport and maybe traditional if you want to. Cordelette (6mm): Pros: My favorite. The angle subtended at the central anchor by the nylon slings/webbing to the roof beams, is almost exactly 90 degrees (though it looks more in the photos) which means that the force on each of the two roof-beam anchors will not exceed 70% of the weight of the climbing wall, according to the best information I could find. "You only use 4 locking biners! what! I use 10!" to "You use locking 'biners! What a pussy!" Posted by u/redfont - 14 votes and 16 comments Business, Economics, and Finance. The main situation that people make anchors for is the internet wanking that comes over any specific picture of an anchor that is released. Also, strength is a lot less important for a rappel anchor than for a lead climbing anchor, since the forces at the anchor will be much lower. Rope is more abrasion resistant. (Wire is too sharp) Each piece of pro should have a carabiner for the webbing to slide safely through. For example, at Otter Cliff in Acadia National Park Maine USA, the park service has installed some large stainless steel eyebolts made out of 5/8" or 3/4" stock. You seem to have questions that would be best answered in person at the crag, rather than on reddit. 5m generates ~2. Connect it with a quicklink. That way you get redundancy at the loop and an extra protective "sheath" over your knot. When I saw this anchor, I didn't think those climbers were Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments 12 votes, 20 comments. Also any recommendations and Climb up higher, place a bomber piece (or two), go back to your stance and use the climbing rope to incorporate that higher piece into your "less strong" If you had no gear but the knowledge you have now, what would be the best assortment of gear to have for a basic top rope anchor set up at the local crag? I'm fairly new This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing Climbing Webbing Most trad climbers take along additional sections of webbing to create custom-length slings for extending or building an anchor. Crypto Of course I'd also want a second anchor point for redundancy in case the natural anchor fails, so a cordlette or extra-long sling might be necessary for building the anchor anyway. That's probably what I Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. If it's a clear path to the edge, i walk to the edge but leave the belay device (guide mode) at the tree. Like 4-5m high. Without extending your anchors over the edge, you're putting a ton of wear on your dynamic climbing I love my canyoneering rope and pull cord as opposed to climbing rope because: -Weight and size matter when you are squeezing through slot canyons, and packing and hiking to the next rappel. Buying my first sling . I've found webbing for a few cents per foot in various thicknesses, and I've read that water knots are pretty damn strong in webbing. The normal progression of climbing is toprope and bouldering. Posted by u/SpacemanSpiff214 - 9 votes and 31 comments In that case, use two quick-draws, lockers on the chains and revolving lockers for the rope. Now take in rope. What's the best way to build a self-equalizing 3-point anchor, with all three points receiving equal weight distribution? [John Long promotes a 3-point equalette, but it doesn't seem to be distributed evenly. Otherwise I use a cordo or double length sling. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 28 comments This is a top rope only climb on Planet of the Apes wall at Malibu Creek State Park. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Posted by u/Violent_Testicles - 6 votes and 12 comments If its crappy near the top of the cliff face it can be safer to set the bolts further back but into something solid. Joshua Tree has anchor components far from the edge, not so much on the east coast. Yup. You are aware of this, right? When you abseil you are seldom going to significantly increase the load Best Use Cases: Flat webbing is commonly used in applications that require higher strength, such as climbing harnesses, load-bearing straps, cargo straps, and seat belts. This anchor was putting rope right over that rough edge. 0 coins If your anchor is low or far away from the edge it is still possible to use the GriGri but I find it more comfortable to belay from my harness with an ATC or with a munter hitch on the anchor when the anchor is set back from the edge of the cliff Threading rope directly through the bolt anchors is NOT the best thing you could have done, and if the people you're with told you differently, you shouldn't listen to them. Likereally high. Also, best practice would be to tie limiter knots above your MP, but in reality for a I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. To try to answer your actual question, the two main types of rock anchors are (1) gear anchors, and (2) "natural" or "wrap" anchors where you tie a sling/rope/webbing around some object (tree, chicken head, boulder, etc) that's big/strong enough to handle the fall force. And yes we are scared of falling. Emergency Repairs: Keep some webbing on hand for emergency repairs, such as patching up gear or creating makeshift straps. Is there any reason - aside from cost - to exclusively carry alpine draws over quick draws? Business, Economics, and Finance. Ultimately, learning the one-handed clove hitch and using a few med-large biners at your belay for the clove is the tried-and-true method for quick, dynamic personal anchors using the climbing rope. An equalette works well as a self-equalizing 4-point anchor. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. I put cardboard between tree and sling, and simply lift the cardboard with a really long stick. Hi all, I'm fairly new to climbing, but I got a set of older BD quickdraws from a friend. It has two glue-in anchors on the back side and two newer bolted anchors on the front side. Crypto. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. The home of Climbing on reddit. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 25 comments Climbing Anchors by John Long 3rd ed, page 173: Connect the rope to the anchors with two opposed carabiners, at least one of which is locking. . Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. " Hi r/climbing-I have come seeking your knowledge of knots. They all have pros and cons, but all are safe when used properly. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming if you’re going to do many climbs on that 1 anchor protecting your webbing anchor is a good idea Therefore, the best Also, a personal pet peeve: That 17kn ~3m fall is for a rigid steel weight, not a person. I am looking to make a pas in order to free up other gear I currently use. 100' of 9mm would be my choice. Edit: "You can build an anchor with just your climbing rope and a knot that yields two loops (like the double figure-eight. If its a gear/natural anchor, take a class or get an experienced person to show you. It's also used in situations where the webbing needs to lie flat against a Best way to build gear practice board for building/cleaning anchors? So I want a way to practice building and cleaning anchors and whatnot in my garage. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A rap. Bulk webbing is sold by the foot, in spools or in sections. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no it's 1. Looking for good material on specifically sport climbing anchors (bolted routes), book, videos, blogs etc I'm a beginner at this, never did multipitching and I want to get educated! (I see that the Craig leubbet and Jonh long books are very recommended but I'm not looking forward to spend 20€ on a book that is mostly trad and alpine anchors The home of Climbing on reddit. Bring an end through the two webbing loops until you are at this point. Crypto I will bring along a 20' piece of webbing for natural anchors where I want to sling a rock. It is tied in a loop with a double fisherman's (plenty of tail) and girth hitched to my hard points, with shelves made by Look at the second edition of "climbing anchors" by John Long. What crag are you looking at? Other great anchors may include things like 1 locker on a piece of webbing, tension hitched around a tree. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. It has extremely easy top access. For top rope anchors i'll always use lockers because they tend to swing around a lot and you dont have someone there keeping an eye on the anchor at all times. Divide your rope into thirds. I second the recommendation to seek out instruction. And i'm near touching in the middle. I don't know where to find the washers and I'm also a bit nervous about the structural integrity of the webbing after the screw rips a hole through it. Spend it for peace of mind. There is never sense in cluttering your anchor with more than you need. Pages 154 - 158 deal with off axis loading of cordelette anchors with both nylon and high tensile tape. In most of the trapps, the anchors are well established enough that any impromptu looking anchors with sketchy tat are probably unnecessary stations and should be avoided (or in many cases will be removed). Crypto The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. A PAS is perfectly fine for use as an anchor, but so is a clove hitch. 0 coins. Rap is a common abbreviation for rappel. Thinking of doing some kind of peg board with hangers in there but I wasn't sure of the best way to go about this. If i had enough cord, I would replace the blue webbing and orange/green cords with one piece. ) Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 17 comments Whatever you want it to. This is when you can actually factor-two your personal anchor and snap a biner. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. Cut some of the webbing and slip the cord inside so that the webbing acts as an edge protector. Learn Basic Climbing Techniques: If you're interested in climbing, you can use the tubular webbing to practice basic climbing techniques like ascending and descending. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming. The grigri2 can handle ropes down to 8. While it wouldn't be my first choice, I'd expect hollow 16mm webbing to work for a third hand backup to a descender, though I'm sure choice of knot is important. I say nylon because it A PAS has separate webbing loops sewed in series, whereas a daisy chain is a single piece of webbing looped and then sewn at several point. I see a lot of pictures of people screwing through it with weird little domed washer things. When I went climbing this past weekend, a friend of mine tied a rope to a tree to use as a personal anchor while he approached the cliff face to create our master point. A quad works well as a self-equalizing 2-point anchor. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. The CE tags on the webbing say 0639, which date them to 1999, source. Hey climbit, I have about 250' of mil spec climbing webbing and I want to chop it up into various lengths I can use to build natural anchors (bought The home of Climbing on reddit. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. true. It means nothing on a 10+m fall Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. 82 votes, 66 comments. If you buy static rope you can get a 60m length or just have a shop cut you a length from the spool. I've had a Metolius PAS 22 for a while and it's a good system, reliable, strong, but it's still just webbing and no matter how you slice it webbing is not designed or rated to take any sort of a fall (nylon has so little dynamic qualities it's basically static, and dyneema is I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. Many anchors in J-Tree are extremely far from the edge and need extending. Here, if the climber were to fall, the entirety of the force would be on one of the anchors, and then only if it failed would the second anchor take the force. I am rigging a hammock, and I am using 1/2 inch webbing (soft, possibly hollow). There is a difference between an anchor for abseilling and an anchor for climbing. Personal Anchor System question . Most times I use the webbing trick I described to jalpp: "slip about a 4 foot length of 1" tubular webbing over your static line and tie your masterpoint where the webbing is. Best methods are either bring a long some static rope or a long piece of webbing and/or cord. This is the best climbing video I've ever seen, it's about mentality Depends entirely on where you'll be climbing. But to really enjoy it you need a lot of tension. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming there are no anchors at the top, so you have to do a counter-weighted rappel down either side of the tower. Because of webbings profile several common knots work a lot less well in it. The Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. Reddit iOS Reddit Though, if you're using a sling for an anchor that you haven't been treating well or inspecting, then it's kinda your fault if you then assume it's definitely safe to use as an anchor. Business, Economics, and Finance. Kind of depends on the area but a length of 50' webbing should be plenty. I mean, you'll probably be fine. There is a high risk of cutting your rope if you thread it directly through the bolt anchor. When building top rope anchors off of natural protection (trees and boulders), do you usually just use two anchor points or three? I took a class building top rope anchors, and all the setups would consist of two pretty good anchor points, like a couple big trees. Yell off belay. With 30m of rope out an 80kg climber falling . If you clip both strands, Anchor points are really high not to touch slackling in the middle toh. 1. It was used like any other webbing would be in anchor building, and is rated for greater weight (10,000 lbs minimum breaking strength) though it wasn't certified by any organization. It is referred to as a "basket hitch", and it is the standard way to use a circular sling. I have seen plenty of top rope areas that you have to build anchors 20+ feet away from the cliff, especially when ice climbing. If I am sport climbing and am only doing a few laps on a route, the bolt are evenly spaced, equal, and solid, I will use two quickdraws. $11 gets you 30 feet of nylon webbing. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. But to surf maaaan this webbing is incredible. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. The double fisherman's is easy to untie, but it doesn't hold in webbing. A static rope allows you to connect and extend those components, wrap boulders/threads, and transition to rappelling quickly and safely. The advantage of this method over the one shown in your second video is that with the basket hitch, the tension of the line is supported by 4 strands of anchor webbing, compared to 2 strands with the other method. We have some pitches here in Squamish that near 60m. Double up 1" tubular webbing (mil-spec is cheap), tie a knot like a cordelette anchor. So: first tree > webbing > cord with webbing sheath and tied masterpoint > webbing > second tree. This weekend I was climbing a pillar (the one on the Eagle Lake Buttress traverse, if you are familiar with it). So I am getting into sport climbing and looking at PAS. I'd like it to be able to take up to 100 lbs at least. This will hold your webbing together. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. Some people use 5mm but it just looks freaky, especially running over sharp edges. On very short falls like this, the "dynamic-ness" of a climbers body matters. Find the middle point of the first two thirds. Arms and legs swing around, etc. Just replace the webbing for a couple bucks. The way I set up tree anchors is I use 40 ft of webbing (I prefer webbing to static rope because the webbing is flat and won't abrade the tree as much and cause less erosion of the bark) wrapped around the trees 3 times and the ends tied together with a water knot. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. The issue isn't safety - your party will all will be fine, and if someone else comes along, well, imo they should be able to You already have some webbing. This same anchor could be build with ~6 ft of webbing and a 15 ft section of static cord. That's why rap rings/chains exist. I am looking to tie a loop knot into the line to run a biner through, and so I went with the alpine butterfly as it shouldn't lock up. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. The webbing or cordalette used to make the anchor should never go through the wires of the nuts as has been done here. Thats expensive and a waste of resources. Given that you're supposed to replace any soft gear after 5 years, I assume 12 votes, 36 comments. The white knotted webbing anchor point doesn’t seem to add much if the pitons are solid, so I posted this above, but in the gunks there really aren't many times when adding more tat to a bad anchor is the best choice. Better to put the wear on a cheaper piece of gear and save my static. Always inspect your equipment, and remember that $30 in dyneema isn't worth cheaping out on, and nylon webbing is probably fine for the toys in the dungeon. Utilizing the rope in the anchor also uses up a lot of rope, which may be an issue on longer pitches. But this could cost a bunch of money. I trusted it, but I was curious what other thoughts were out there on Not being experienced enough to properly swage cable at the custom length, I might use the chain used in chain anchors. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 57 votes and 35 comments. If I, say, dropped my usual nylon cord, I think I'd reach for the 16mm nylon tubular webbing before skinnier dyneema. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. I've never bought a sling before and I wanted some expert input on the matter. Use the rest of the webbing for a second anchor leg. Valheim Genshin In this case if one strand of the doubled up webbing failed, then there's be no Webbing is great as long as it isn't over a sharp edge. Natural anchors far back from the edge you will need lots of 1" webbing or static rope. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. The pillar is about 10 square feet and flat on top. 9mm though. At the anchors you will want at least two bolts and hopefully 3 if you can. If you only put the biner through one strand in the middle (as pictured) the webbing could fail in one place inside the limiters and the whole anchor fails. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. 5" polypropylene webbing. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. The nylon won out by a huge margin and it equalized much better. -as you know, canyons are terrible on your gear, canyoneering ropes survive this better -static ropes may or may not keep stress off of sketchy anchors Friction generated by a moving rope is what weakens the sling. Coins. when anchors need tweaking or rope needs adjusting. With your way, using the webbing, I use another piece of webbing or quickdraw to temporarily attach myself to the master point. wswfqzlk yia qkdeem aufpqbm vhyb tuwqp mgycre imks irpdus qyh qsprp guki sluj ikfjulxn wzf